Chapter 5: Adelaide to Beachport, South Australia

We were driving through some stunning nothingness on our day 6 in Australia. I truly don't remember ever seeing so much natural beauty. We'd driven through a universe unto itself. The road from Adelaide to Beachport is going through such a spectacular area. At first it felt like we were on the surface of the moon, the one that enchants dreamers. Then, it felt like jumping to Earth from the edge of space. Then, falling into the sea of sand dunes. Australia is so much bigger than I had anticipated. Even my camera couldn't take one percent of the pictures my eyes were capturing.

When we left Adelaide very early in the morning we didn't know yet that we would end up in Beachport. We didn't have a plan. We didn't have any hotels or motels booked. The idea was just to start driving and see how far we could get. Our breakfast we found in Miningie, a small town at the northern end of the Coorong on the shores of Lake Albert. They have there the Miningie Bakery with some outstanding hand-sized meat pies with onion and mushrooms! These pies were wonderfully crispy on the outside and very meaty inside. Just the way Robert and I like it.

Have you ever felt there must be something more out there? I think I found it here in Australia. And the realization of it began with my very first beach driving. There was a beach. A very long natural sandy beach. We couldn't see the ends of that beach. I thought it was crazy when Robert offered to leave the road and actually drive the beach instead. It was crazy. There were only dunes and ocean. No people. No towns. But a few minutes later we were flying down that beach and it was unbelievably amazing! We opened the windows to hear the sound of water and I was trying to catch the wind with my fingers. That moment was the first moment ever when I felt, I truly felt like it is for real to be the only ones in the world. My eyes were in tears again, maybe the third time that day. They say tears clear away everything that is usually so "important" and replace it with an emotion that brings the spirit to the forefront. I think now I know what it means. I don't know how long we were going against the wind. Suddenly we just arrived to an exit from the beach to Cape Jaffa, another small town famous for its fishing and wineries, but we headed forward.

We reached Beachport a few hours before sunset. Robert felt tired and we decided it was time to find a place for a night. It's when we saw a sign for Beachport. I immediately loved the name of the town and I was hoping the town was actually on the beach because the last few hours we were driving through a Mars-scape. When I saw a pier, I already knew we scored as for me there is no such thing as a bad town with a pier. Beachport is a beautiful and tiny town with enormous appeal and, as it happened, the second longest pier in South Australia. Woohoo!

We got very lucky to get a room at the Bompas Hotel which is an old historic property and it means it had all the character I so love when choosing a place to stay. It had only one downside: our room had no bathroom. Yep. Bathroom and toilet were in the hall for everyone to use. I was a little bit shocked, but what the hell. It's just for a night.

One absolutely amazing attraction of Beachport is the short Bowman Scenic Drive that follows the spectacular rugged coast of the Southern Ocean. The sun was so welcoming, we got out of the car and walked to the beaches. I honestly can't describe the beauty of these coves and rock formations. My camera didn't capture it either. It's just so beautiful with all those bright yellow and deep blue colors like you wouldn't see anywhere else. Nothing else. Unspoiled. Wild. Being in a kind of nowhere between sky and earth, away from world, away from existing. A bare foot touching soft sand, breathing wild air. I wish we could stay there longer. Maybe forever...

Cape Jaffa Lighthouse

Cape Jaffa Lighthouse


Bowman Scenic Drive


Bompas of Beachport (Seaview cafe, restaurant, bar & accommodation)

Bompas of Beachport (Seaview cafe, restaurant, bar & accommodation)