Black and White Waves of Mavericks Beach

Mavericks Beach in Half Moon Bay is famous for being one of the biggest wave breaks in the world. The beach is truly epic and its dangerous swells are some of the most beautiful and startling waves in Northern California; loved by surfers for their size and power. To me, always lured by the potential of the unknown, finally seeing this fabled beach was a treat. Last weekend the waves were not as massive as I hoped them to be, but still, I got all the energy and power of freedom I came for. 

In many ways, my happiness depends on wildness and art. When I am in the middle of nowhere, in the center of pure nature, with my camera and my man, this is when I feel myself the happiest and most free because it's when I can experience and express everything from my deepest heart fully. Freedom is everything for any kind of artist. Every artist has his own freedom he inherited or is trying to achieve. For me, as Sartre said, “Freedom is what you do with what’s been done to you.” Freedom is a wave that is crashing into the stones to create the beauty of a splash just for a second. Freedom is the risk of being not accepted. 

I know that my freedom is in life away from any artificial noise, away from buzz and fuzz, out of the rat race. I know I want to be a photographer whose work is accepted into galleries and being sold. But I can't yet find the courage to act on what I know to be true for me and so I continue to flow in the wrong direction. I don't think I gave up on dreaming though. That's what still keeps me going. And who knows... maybe I will soon start swimming against that flow...